It was a wonderful job as it allowed us to relax behind a bar, chat with fellow adventurers and hear their shared experiences and insights. In off hours we would go out to eat or roam the city together - even went on a trip to see La Traviata at the national opera house! We made a glorious little family in our short time there.
Now, before we get too judgmental about the capitol of Albania, we must realize that they are rebounding from some serious and long-lasting repression and turmoil under communism. As one Albanian bar visitor retorted to us tourists and our auto-centric complaints: "We've only had cars for ten years - what do you expect!?" Seriously! I can't imagine if my country has been so controlled and shut down for decades that I did not have the right as a citizen to transport myself anywhere. Most Albanians were not even allowed to leave their town, let-alone drive solo about the country. They were expected to perform their assigned labor in their town of birth forever. Albania's emerging into a new world now, with new freedoms and rights to work out. And as you can tell from the length of this post, I am intrigued by the city. I'm am grateful for all the smiling and helpful strangers and the friends I found, even through the smog.